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AFS Review: Notes

AFS Annual Meeting Sessions of Interest on Foodways

Tuesday, October 6, 2015   (0 Comments)
Posted by: Shannon K. Larson
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Here is a not-so-short guide to foodways presentations at the 2015 AFS meeting in Long Beach.  All papers listed here are foodways related (or at least foodways adjacent). The range of topics this year is staggering: fishing poetry, agriculture, hunting deities, Hawaiian and Tahitian foodways, body, co-ops, food production, identity, religious foodways, farmers, and pastry history.  Have a peruse.  Hopefully, this will help with your selections during the meeting.  

Just as a reminder, the Foodways Section Business Meeting will be on Saturday from 12:15-2:00pm at George’s Greek Café (135 Pine Ave.). Attendees are responsible for their own lunch.  

Sessions of Interest
Thursday 8:00 a.m. – 10:00 a.m. 

01-08 Exploring Foodways (Odessa room)

Kristin M. McAndrews (University of Hawai‘i, Mānoa), chair
  • Eric César Morales (Indiana University), Fire, Food, and Earth: The Tahitian ‘Ahimā’a
  • John B. Fenn (University of Oregon), Cultural Mapping and Digital Technologies
  • Katrina S. Wynn (Maine Folklife Center), Foodways-Related Beliefs of the Unitarian Universalists
  • Kristin M. McAndrews (University of Hawai’i, Mānoa), Gastrodiplomacy and King David Kalakaua
01-09 Folk/Ag Part I: Ecologies of Place—Cultural Landscape, Environment, and Women’s Food Production (Shanghai room)

This panel looks at the politics of place as it inflects women’s agricultural and foodways practices and traditions. Our papers take up the complex ways that the politics, traditions, and geographies of space, place, and environment affect and create emplaced food cultures and economies; particularly, we take up the question of "ecologies” of place in and around food husbandry—home canning, crabbing, and pie making—and examine the complex relationships and dynamics between living traditions, agri/cultural systems, and the natural world. We explore 20th-century traditions of US food production as localized performances and productions that nonetheless exist within the circulations of national policy, global imagination, and collective ecological crisis. 

Jess Lamar Reece Holler (Western Kentucky University and University of Pennsylvania), chair 
  • Danille Elise Christensen (Virginia Tech), Hobby, Lifestyle, Authentic, Elite: Labels, Material Systems, and the Politics of Home Food Preservation
  • Paulina Guerrero (Indiana University), The Smith Island Women’s Crab Co-op: Sense of Place, Maritime Foodways, and Environmental Crisis
  • Hannah Cooper Davis (Western Kentucky University), Eyes on the Pies: Communal Visions of Collaborative Competition
  • Ann K. Ferrell (Western Kentucky University), discussant
02-09 Folk/Ag Part II: Enacting Belief, Encountering the State (Shanghai room)

This panel considers what happens when empowered cultures of agriculture—especially state-based, imperial, national or legislated agricultural practice—meet community agricultures and diverse, alternative, or contested systems of agricultural belief, tradition, and practice. We look to these encounters to tell us about the surprising legacies of negotiation, agency, response, and adaptation required in these moments of cross-cultural encounter. Our papers are specifically interested, in both histori¬cal and contemporary perspectives, in the agency of local systems of agriculture to "speak truth to power,” and to inflect, shape, converse with, and perhaps even transform, official cultures of agricultural knowledge, practice, and belief.

Ann K. Ferrell (Western Kentucky University), chair
  • Sarah K. Rovang (Brown University), Electrifying Encounters: The Appropriation of Folk Culture in Depression-Era Farm Modernization Efforts 
  • Nicole Welk (University of Pennsylvania), God and Science: Narrative Negotiations between Agricultural Experts and Amish Dairy Farmers 
  • Jess Lamar Reece Holler (Western Kentucky University and University of Pennsylvania), "Whose Land Is It, Anyway?”: Enacting Ethics, Encountering the State, and Doing Ecology in Contemporary Sustainable Agricultures 
  • Taylor M. Moore (Rutgers University), Cane Cultivators, Sheyukh, and Magical Eggplants: The Political and Spiritual Economy of Plants in Khedival Upper Egypt (1820–1925) 
Thursday 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.

03-12 Folk/Ag Part III: Agricultural Encounters (Shoreline room)

This panel looks at how agricultural com¬munities respond when encountering new challenges. For members of a Missouri producer’s co-op, that means supporting each other through "neighborly” initiatives. In New York, hard cider producers are bringing economic opportunities to the region with value-added farm products and the revival of orcharding heritage. Rural Winchester was built on demand for Virginia apples; today the apple industry is waning but the Apple Blossom Festival that celebrates the tradition is bigger than ever. Over the mountains in Virginia, "pick-your-own” farmers are encountering new worlds via a boom in customers from a variety of ethnic backgrounds.

Kim D. Stryker (George Mason University and Save the Smithsonian Folklife Festival), chair
  • Rachel Reynolds Luster (Oregon County Food Producers and Artisans Co-op), Fostering Successful Community Encounters from the Ground Up, Rooted in Place-Based Traditions and Holistic Engagement 
  • Maria Kennedy (ARTS Council of the Southern Finger Lakes), Public Folklore in the Agricultural Marketplace: Cultural Programming and Economic Development in the Cider Revival
  • Kaitlyn L. Kinney (George Mason University), Apples of Identity: Agro-industry and Festival within the Shenandoah Valley 
  • Kim D. Stryker (George Mason University and Save the Smithsonian Folklife Festival), Accidental Foodways Encounters and Cultural Exchange in the Pick-Your-Own Orchards of the Virginia Piedmont 

Friday 8:00 a.m. 10:00 a.m.  

04-08 FisherPoets and Folklorists: A Symbiotic Relationship (Odessa room) 

Sponsored by the Public Programs Section

This panel brings together three generations of folklorists who have collaborated with and documented the annual FisherPoets Gathering (FPG) in Astoria, Oregon. The gathering speaks to the significance of the Pacific Northwest’s historic fisheries and fishing communities, to their relationship with the environment, local economies, and local cultures. As academically trained public folklorists, we bring our theoretical interests in gender, performance, and occupational lore to bear on how working men and women repurpose traditional expressive structures and forms to create and sustain community. The FPG has grown from 1998’s weekend get-together to a three-day, six-venue event with an audience of over 1,500, including fishermen, locals, tourists, and folklorists.

Rachelle H. Saltzman (Oregon Folklife Network), chair
  • Jens Lund (independent), read by Debbie Fant (Washington State Parks), "I Done What I Could and I Did What I Can”: Occupational Folk Poetry in the Pacific Northwest
  • Julianne Meyer (University of Oregon), Words Carried In with the Tide: Boundaries of Gender at the FisherPoets Gathering 
  • Rachelle H. Saltzman (Oregon Folklife Network), "Hey, Folklorists!” FisherPoets and Public Folklorists—Practicing Partnership
  • Lisa Gilman (University of Oregon), discussant
Friday 2:00 p.m. – 4:00 p.m.

06-06 Mediterranean Foodways: Enactments and Encounters of Identity and Heritage (Melbourne room) 

Sponsored by the Foodways Section and the Mediterranean Studies Section

Food is key to lived experience, a marker of difference, and a mediator of social relationships, memory, identity, and heritage production. This panel analyzes transnational and global food enactments and encounters in Italian, Greek, and Turkish contexts. Panel topics range from bread-making as intimate enactment and transmission of culinary knowledge intergenerationally and transnationally, to the use of foodways and social media to redefine Italianness abroad, to Greek urban gardens as means to ameliorate economic austerity, and to Greek olive oil as embodiment of hierarchies of value and contributing to the understanding of food as heritage. 

Incoronata Inserra (University of Hawai‘i, Mānoa), chair
  • Incoronata Inserra (University of Hawai’i, Mānoa), Negotiating and Redefining Italian Foodways on Facebook
  • Joan Saverino (Arcadia University), The Intimacy of Bread Making, Culinary Knowledge, and Enactment in the Social Space of the Bake Oven from Calabria, Italy, to Appalachia
  • Meltem Turkoz (Isik University), Global and Local Hierarchies of Value in Turkish Olive Oil Worlds
  • Christine Zinni (State University of New York, Brockport), A (Re)Turn to a Commons: Austerity, Revitalization Movements, and Urban Gardens in Greece
Saturday 12:15 p.m. – 2:00 p.m.

Saturday Foodways Section Meeting: George’s Greek Café (135 Pine Ave.) 

Individual Papers of Interest

02-06 Bodylore and Performance (Melbourne room) 

10:45 Danae M. Faulk (independent), Ecofashion as Bodylore: Materializing Sizism in the Production of the Ethical Body


04-07 "Ain’t No California”: Travelers as Tricksters (Naples room)
8:30 Marisa G. Wieneke (The Ohio State University), "Where He Goes, Many Will Follow”: The LA Trickster and His Taco Trucks

04-09 Folklore and Environmental Crisis (Shanghai room)

9:30  Bruno Seraphin (University of Oregon), "Give Strength to What Remains”: How Turns of Phrase Hold Together a Network of Nomadic Environmentalists

05-07 The Spiritual Fantastic: When Spiritual Need Meets Secular Lore in the Middle Ages and Early Modern Period (Naples room)

10:15 Judith Lanzendorfer (The University of Findlay), Lammas Day Bread and Fairy Bread: From Celebration Foods to Protection Charms. 

05-14 Tourism (Marina room)

11:45 Nathan Young (The Ohio State University), Loss and Reclamation: Economic Repurposing of Village Traditions in Western Turkey. 

06-05 Organizing and Sustaining Community (Casablanca room)
2:30 Jessie Riddle (Brigham Young University), The Cuero and Chronotopic Family Narrative: Environmental Folklore and Community in Futaleufú, Chile

06-07 Naples Art, Literature, and the World (Naples room) 

3:00 M. Dustin Knepp (California State University, Bakersfield), Food, Family, and Life: Representations of a Chicano Experience in the Art of Joe Lopez

06-13 Material Vernaculars (Palos Verdes room)

3:00 Gabrielle Berlinger (University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill), A Material Meditation on Place and Promise: The Sukkah in Jewish American and Israeli Contemporary Life

3:30 Michael P. Jordan (Texas Tech University), Depictions of Women in Kiowa Drawings from Fort Marion: Reassessing 19th-Century Kiowa Gender Roles


07-07 Medicine, Science, and Human-Animal Relationships (Naples room)

8:00 Shawn L. Terrell (Appalachian State University), Community-Based Animal Healthcare in Southern Appalachia: Local Knowledge of Illness, Ecology, and Folk Veterinary Medicines

07-09 Folklore and Pop Culture (Shanghai room)

9:30 LuAnne K. Roth (University of Missouri), Freedom from What?: Norman Rockwell’s Freedom from Want, Its Parodies, and the Folk Critique of Thanksgiving Ideology

08-02 Performing Sexuality: Vernacular Queer Latina/o Cultures in the Americas (Ocean room)

10:45 Solimar Otero (Louisiana State University), In the Water with Inle: Queer Legacies in Afro-Latina/o Religious Folklore. 

08-07 Historicity and Tradition (Naples room)

11:45 Rachel C. Hopkin (The Ohio State University), The Way of the Croissant 

08-08 Family and Occupational Narratives (Odessa room)

10:45 Christofer Johnson (The Ohio State University), Where the Creel Boats Go: The Politics of Sustainable Fisheries in a Small Orkney Community

09-07 Place and Space on the Cultural Landscape (Naples room)

3:00 Sean Galvin (LaGuardia Community College), Space and Place in New York City Foodways Practices. 

09-09 Gendered Ecologies of Enactment: Creatively Rendering Encounters for Transformative Listening (Shanghai room)

3:30 Misha Rai (Florida State University), Food I Never Ate: A Family Encounter

09-13 Globalization and Multiculturalism (Palos Verdes room)

3:30 Lucy Long (Center for Food and Culture), Becoming "American” through Ethnic Grocery Stores: Occupational Folklife, Ethnicity, and Food

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